Two Remarkable and Timeless “Helmet” Watches from Seiko and OMEGA

Ever heard of helmet watches? If you aren't 40+, the chances are you never have, despite being a big horology fan. This is not a big surprise since helmets were introduced in the 1970s and have been quite distinctive even though they're over 50 nowadays.

So, before discussing these two great watches in detail, here's a general snapshot of the term helmet watches.

Briefly about the helmet watches

Things are simple here. First, the helmet is not an official name but a nickname the fans gave, a common practice in the horology circles. Now, why the helmet? Upon first glance, it becomes clear why this peculiar nickname fits perfectly; it's the shape of their cases and the first and general impression they leave: bold, sturdy, and dominant. Both Omega and Seiko models featured in the review here are helmets and chronographs, although they significantly differ in the rest of their appearance and features.

Two helmets side by side in all their metallic glory!  Left: Seiko 6139-7100 Darth Vader Helmet Chronograph Automatic Watch with a Milanese Bony Wire Mesh Watch Strap ; Right: Vintage OMEGA Speedmaster Mark III Mechanical Chronograph 176.002 with a Milanese Brushed and Tapered Mesh Watch strap

Original, masculine, and authentic are epithets often used to characterize watches from the 1970s. Plus, it was a decade for pushing boundaries in watchmaking, and our two featured helmets fit both descriptions and have secured their places among the historic watches of that prolific decade. Let's go into individual details about why that's a fact and why these two interesting models still arouse interest among fans.

Seiko 6139-7100 Darth Vader Chronograph Automatic Watch

The story of Darth Vader originates from 1969 and the introduction of the Seiko 6139, one of the first three Seiko automatic chronograph movements and probably the first ever automatic chronographs ever. Thanks to that, the fact that it was the first automatic movement in space, and its reliability and quality in the first place, the Seiko 6139 has earned a legendary status over the years, earning a nickname of the "Grandfather of Modern Chronograph Movement" When you add such an unusual case to guard the infamous movement, you get a memorable package that cannot go unnoticed.

Seiko 6139-7100 Darth Vader's masculinity and elegance perfectly complemented by a Quick Release all Brushed Classic Superfine Mesh Watch Strap

The first Seiko 6139-7100 Darth Vader was released in 1970, just at the start of the vivid decade of watchmaking design, and that's probably one of the reasons why its design does not really blend in with the rest of the lively specimen released later in the decade. On the other hand, the helmet case that characterizes it, being unusual and authentic as is, is enough of an authentic touch to make it stand out among the myriad of watches from the 1970s, the decade where standing out was one of the top goals when watch design is in question.

Even more metal for Seiko 6139-7100 Darth Vader Chronograph? By all means, paired with a 20mm Stainless Steel Brushed Retro Shaver QR Watch Strap

Another interesting fact is that the price of the Seiko 6139-7100 at the time of its release in 1976 equaled that of a medium-sized car. For the case specifics, it's a stainless steel case, 40mm wide and 14mm thick, featuring smooth radial brushing on the base, a high-polished bezel, and steeply angled lugs. It's large and deep, and looking at it from the outside reminds one of looking into a space helmet, thus the nickname.

Not enough black on Seiko 6139-7100 Darth Vader? Darken the mood all the way with a 20mm MiLTAT Matte Black Nubuck Leather Watch Strap

Other notable features of the Seiko Darth Vader are:

• Hardflex Crystal Glass
• Seiko 6139 Automatic Chronograph Caliber
• Black dial featuring dominant hands and markers, distinctive chronograph hands, and a quick-setup date display at 3 O'Clock.
• The tachymeter scale on the bezel
• No continuous seconds hand
• 30-minute Chronograph subdial at 6 O'Clock

Seiko 6139-7100 helmet in a softened yet timeless, elegant combo with a Q.R. Brown Leather Italian Handmade Racer Watch Strap.

All in all, the Seiko 6139 Darth Vader Chronograph is a captivating mid-1970s watch with groundbreaking features at the time that is still attractive and sought after today, luckily at a fraction of its original price.

Prefer blackish elegance but with a softening touch of light brown? Then the Seiko 6139-7100 Helmet Chronograph coupling with a MiLTAT Rally Racing Dark Grey Nubuck Watch Strap with Brown Stitching is the perfect choice for you.

Omega Speedmaster Mark III Mechanical Chronograph 176.002

Omega was obviously thinking bold and big, too, during the 1970s. One of the most notable results of such design ideas is their Speedmaster Mark III Chronograph 176.002. It came in three different dial colors, black, silver, and blue. All their other features were identical. Of course, the first thing that meets the eye is the dominant helmet case. It's a 41mm wide and 15.5mm thick stainless steel case, equally dominant but a notch less deep than the one of Seiko Darth Vader. Another difference between the two is the dial design. Mark III fits the vivid 1970s design better, particularly with the deep blue palette variant.

Soothing deep blue radiance of OMEGA Mark III Mechanical Chronograph elevated by a 22mm N9 Nylon Blue and Khaki Watch Strap

Other specs of Omega Speedmaster Mark III 176.002 are:

• Caliber 1040, self-winding automatic (mechanical) Omega movement based on the Lemania 1341
• 24h, date, tachymeter, and chronograph complications
• The second and minute Chronograph hands
• Acrylic Mineral Glass
• A tachymeter scale on the bezel
• The Seamaster logo engraved on the caseback

The two sweep hands add to the dial's appeal. The white one marks elapsed seconds, while the black one with the plane-shaped orange tip tracks elapsed minutes. There are two subdials, the 12h one at 6 O'clock and the 24h one at 9 O'clock. Another difference from the Seiko Darth Vader is that Omega Speedmaster Mark III is water-resistant up to 50 meters.

A natural match for Vintage OMEGA Speedmaster Mark III to elevate all this classic helmet stands for a 22mm Rollball version II QR Watch Strap

Mark III was Omega's first self-winding chronograph. Its oversized case, attractive dial, and dominant overall presence are bound to be noticed in every setting, making it attractive nowadays. The fact that it can be found in great shape and for a bargain from time to time makes it even more appealing.

Pay Attention to Watch Strap Changing

Given that both watches are more than 50 years old, their straps will eventually need to be replaced. The standard procedure for releasing the strap is shown in pictures 9A and 9B when the case has side holes that make the process straightforward.

Pic.9A : We used the Seiko New Turtle as the demo watch. Like
most Seiko Prospex watches, the New Turtle has a hole in its
case, which allows the spring bar removal tool to easily reach
the spring bars.

Pic.9B : Using the pin head of the spring bar tool, simply apply
pressure through the hole to reach the spring bar, and the watch
strap can be removed.

A spring bar tool is required to change standard watch bands. The tool has a pin head on one side and a fork head on the other. The pin head works in the holes, and the fork head grabs and controls the flange of spring bars.

Now, neither Omega nor Seiko helmets have those side holes. And there's a catch to doing it right, again using the spring bar tool mentioned above. However, replacing their old straps requires special attention due to minimal lug space.

Photos 10A and 10B explain the replacement process for helmet cases.

Pic.10A : This picture shows the vintage OMEGA Speedmaster
Mark III, with no side hole found on the case. That prevents you
from clearly seeing the spring bar.

Pic.10B : To remove the spring bar hidden inside the watch strap
lug, find the gap between the strap and the lug. This time use the
fork head of the spring bar tool to grab the spring bar's flange.

An important additional note to wrap up the strap replacement procedure instructions: pictures 11A and 11B clarify the particular case when an additional metal tube is used to support the watch strap on watches whose cases have no side holes.

Pic.11A : You may choose a reinforced watch strap to replace
your old one. There's a chance it could have an additional tube
to support the strap. If that tube is made of metal, once you fix
the watch strap to the watch without side holes, the watch
strap can no longer be removed.

Pic.11B : A photo of a metal tube, spring bar, and the fork head
spring bar tool alongside the vintage OMEGA Speedmaster Mark
III.

As you can see, each pair of photos (9 to 11) has explanations right underneath them. If you follow the instructions carefully while using the right tool, replacing the strap will be a breeze.

The rest of the featured photos feature some of the best strap choices available for Seiko Darth Vader and Omega Speedster Mark III. Each adds character without diminishing the classic charm and masculinity both veterans radiate.

Written by S.K., images by Toni